Tırmanış Sporunda Açık ve Kapalı Tutuşta Uygulanan Parmak Kuvvetlerinin ve Kas Aktivasyonunun İncelenmesi

Çiftçi, Caner

View/Open

tez ana metni (6.671Mb)

Date

2024-01-26

Author

Çiftçi, Caner

xmlui.dri2xhtml.METS-1.0.item-emb

Acik erisim

xmlui.mirage2.itemSummaryView.MetaData

Show full item record

Abstract

It is known that finger grip positions in climbing sports vary towards hand and upper extremity positions, body posture, anthropometric dimensions, and contact surface qualities. Accordingly, as finger and wrist phalanx positions, joint angles change towards, total and individual forces produced in each finger and stimulation of flexor muscles in the front arm varies as expected. The first prime aim in this study is to develop a system to examine the generated forces and muscle contractions for each finger towards diverse physical parameters. The primary outcome of this research is a manufactured setup enabling adjustments for finger contact surface height and contact width. The secondary aim of this research is to test these muscle tension and generated force outcomes with climbing athletes, for each, the system is individually adjusted by matching anthropometric measures. The main combinations tested in this study are open and half crimp with varied contact surface positions. This study shows that unlevel edges aligned towards finger joint positions are followed with lesser force but similar or more effort. Nevertheless, just raising one finger in such positions provides an increase in total force without changing the muscle activity. During sport performance, a climber may give full potential for holding a single hard grip but, for training, variously shaped holding elements may develop the performance with lesser force but similar muscle activity. Nevertheless, more balanced force sharing among fingers is not observed during holding edges aligned towards finger joint positions.

URI

https://hdl.handle.net/11655/34546

xmlui.mirage2.itemSummaryView.Collections

Egzersiz ve Spor Bilimleri Bölümü Tez Koleksiyonu [61]

xmlui.dri2xhtml.METS-1.0.item-citation

1. Künzell, S., Balas, J., España-Romero, V., Giles, D., & Legreneur, P. (2021). Editorial: Research in Sport Climbing. In Frontiers in Psychology (Vol. 12). Frontiers Media S.A. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2021.752617 2. International Federation of Sport Climbing, Annual Report 2021 [İnternet]. 2022 (Erişim Tarihi 10 Eylül 2023) Erişim adresi: https://reports.ifsc-climbing.org/2021/static/_content/IFSC-Annual-Report-2021_Digital.pdf 3. Freivalds, A. (2014). Biomechanics of the Upper Limbs: Mechanics, modeling, and musculoskeletal injuries. 2nd ed. Florida: CRC Press. 4. Hanna, J. B., Granatosky, M. C., Rana, P., & Schmitt, D. (2017). The evolution of vertical climbing in primates: Evidence from reaction forces. Journal of Experimental Biology, 220(17), 3039–3052. https://doi.org/10.1242/jeb.157628 5. Kraft, T. S., Venkataraman, V. v., & Dominy, N. J. (2014). A natural history of human tree climbing. Journal of Human Evolution, 71, 105–118. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhevol.2014.02.002 6. Kidd, T.W., Hazelrigs, J. (2009): Rock climbing outdoor adventures. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics 7. Kuelthau, W., The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World. [İnternet]. 2019 [Erişim Tarihi 3 Haziran 2023) Erişim adresi: https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-sport-climbs 8. Hörst, EJ. (2008). Training for climbing : the definitive guide to improving your performance. 2nd ed. Guilford: Falconguides 9. Schweizer, A. (2008). Biomechanics of the interaction of finger flexor tendons and pulleys in rock climbing. Sports Technology, 1(6), 249–256. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2008.9648482 10. Amca, A.M. (2014). Kaya Tırmanışında Tutamak Yapılarına Göre Tutuş Zorluk Derecelerinin Modellenmesi. Hacettepe Üniversitesi, Sağlık Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Doktora tezi. 11. Quaine, F., Vigouroux, L., & Martin, L. (2003). Effect of simulated rock climbing finger postures on force sharing among the fingers. Clinical Biomechanics, 18(5), 385–388. doi:10.1016/s0268-0033(03)00045-7 12. Hörst, E. J. (2012). How to Climb 5.12 (3rd ed.). Falconguides 13. Neuhof, A., Hennig, F. F., Schöffl, I., & Schöffl, V. (2011). Injury risk evaluation in sport climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 32(10), 794–800. https://doi.org/10.1055/s-0031-1279723 14. Aras, D. (2015).Kaya Tırmanışı Sporunda Yaralanma Risk ve Çeşitleri Üzerine bir Derleme, Ankara Üniv Spor Bil Fak, 2015, 13 (1), 41-55 15. King, E. A., & Lien, J. R. (2017). Flexor Tendon Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers. Hand Clinics, 33(1), 141–148. doi:10.1016/j.hcl.2016.08.006 16. Bärtschi, N., Scheibler, A., & Schweizer, A. (2019). Symptomatic epiphyseal sprains and stress fractures of the finger phalanges in adolescent sport climbers. Hand Surgery and Rehabilitation. doi:10.1016/j.hansur.2019.05.003 17. Vigouroux, L., Quaine, F., Labarre-Vila, A., & Moutet, F. (2006). Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. Journal of Biomechanics, 39(14), 2583–2592. doi:10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027 18. Vigouroux, L., Quaine, F., Paclet, F., Colloud, F., & Moutet, F. (2008). Middle and ring fingers are more exposed to pulley rupture than index and little during sport-climbing: A biomechanical explanation. Clinical Biomechanics, 23(5), 562–570. doi:10.1016/j.clinbiomech.2007.12.009 19. Amca, A.M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing, Journal of Sports Sciences, 30:7, 669-677 20. Quaine, F., Vigouroux, L., Paclet, F., & Colloud, F. (2010). The Thumb During the Crimp Grip. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 32(01), 49–53. doi:10.1055/s-0030-1267230 21. Zatsiorsky, V. M., Li, Z.-M., & Latash, M. L. (2000). Enslaving effects in multi-finger force production. Experimental Brain Research, 131(2), 187–195. doi:10.1007/s002219900261 22. E. Güleç, G. Akın, M. Sağır, B. Koca Özer, T. Gültekin , Y. Bektaş (2009) Anadolu insanının antropometrik boyutları. Ankara Üniversitesi Dil ve Tarih-Coğrafya Fakültesi Dergisi 49, 2 (2009) 187-201 23. Güleç, E., Akin, G., Sağir, M., Koca Özer, B., Gültekin, T., & Bektaş, Y. (2009). Anadolu insanının antropometrik boyutları: 2005 yılı türkiye antropometri anketi genel sonuçları. In Ankara Üniversitesi Dil ve Tarih-Coğrafya Fakültesi Dergisi (Vol. 49). 24. (N.A.), ESİT STCS 100 kg [İnternet]. 2023 (Erişim Tarihi 10 Eylül 2023) Erişim adresi: https://www.esit.com.tr/tr/yuk_hucreleri__load_cells_/stcs__yuk_hucresi/urun/5 25. Baláš, J., Panácková, M., Kodejška, J., Cochrane, D. J., & Martin, A. J. (2014). The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 14(2), 345–354. https://doi.org/10.1080/24748668.2014.11868726 26. Baláš, J., MrskoČ, J., PanáČková, M., & Draper, N. (2014). Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. Sports Technology, 7(3–4), 151–158. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082 27. Göb, S., Matros, P., Schöberl, M., Götz, T. I., & Göb, S. (2021). Effect of the grip position on maximal fingertip force during a rock climbing gripping exercise Effect of the grip position on maximal fingertip force. 28. Konrad, P. (2005). The ABC of EMG A Practical Introduction to Kinesiological Electromyography. www.noraxon.com 29. Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2012). Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips. Sports Technology, 5(3–4), 151–155. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2012.755540 30. Vigouroux, L., Goislard de Monsabert, B., & Berton, E. (2015). Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 115(5), 947–957. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-014-3076-6 31. Reilly, K. T., & Schieber, M. H. (2003). Incomplete functional subdivision of the human multitendoned finger muscle flexor digitorum profundus: An electromyographic study. Journal of Neurophysiology, 90(4), 2560–2570. https://doi.org/10.1152/jn.00287.2003